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Although roses, in general, have long had the reputation of being "fussy" or "difficult" to grow, more and more gardeners are becoming aware that these characteristics apply primarily to Modern roses, as opposed to Old Garden Roses. People are discovering that the simpler hybrids of the past, often just one step removed from the species, and the species roses themselves, offer much in the way of beauty while demanding little in the way of care. Their disease-resistance and hardiness are legend and increasing legions of busy modern gardeners are coming to appreciate the many rewards that accrue with the imaginative integration of the wonderful OGRs into the contemporary, low-maintenance landscape. An important consideration for many gardeners which has received very little attention is the ability of plants to perform with limited, carefully measured, applications of water. Though there are a few recent books on this subject in relation to perennials and shrubs, roses have been overlooked by most researchers seeking to maximize the glory of a garden within the constraints of a dry climate with severe restrictions on water usage. Much of my personal research has been in the area of locating and growing roses which can thrive with very minimal watering, and I am currently engaged in writing a book on this subject. In this article I will present a brief overview of my findings and a few suggestions for roses that can be employed to glorious gain by the dry gardener. First, a disclaimer: aside from a couple of species roses, I know of no rose that can survive (much less, look beautiful) with no water at all. Roses love a good drink and will always perform better if they are provided with deep, regular watering. However, I am finding that far more varieties than were ever imagined can produce truly spectacular floral displays and provide good structure and foliage in the landscape with an impressively marginal amount of water. I have been blessed with a unique locale for my studies -- the coast and inland valleys of Northern California, designated as a Mediterranean climate, which is characterized by wet, relatively mild winters and long, dry summers with nary a drop of water and, often, with temperatures that can soar to well over 100 degrees and stay there for long periods of time. One would assume, given current rose cultivation wisdom, that such climates would require a significant use of water during the dry season -- far too much for a gardener attempting to design a "dry" garden. However, I've found that this is not the case and that such gardeners can enjoy the lushness, softness, fragrance and beauty of roses in exchange for a surprisingly small amount of their precious water resources and some careful planning and cultivation practices. A very good source of information for me has been through my hobby of locating and propagating "found" roses in old cemeteries and at abandoned sites of homesteads and farms around N. California. These roses have "naturalized" in their settings and are growing in the conditions utilized by species roses, a situation that often leads the local populace to refer to them erroneously as "wild roses." This mistake is easy to understand when one discovers a massive tangle of roses appearing among the native species on a dry hillside that indicates no other clues of previous human habitation. In many cases, the roses have occupied these niches for decades, even centuries, and despite a complete lack of cultivation they are still freely blooming, unappreciated except by birds, deer, and other wild creatures -- and the occasional "off-road" rosarian like myself. Although many of the cultivars which survive harsh conditions are included in the rambler classifications, I have also found surviving plants of Teas, Chinas, Hybrid Perpetuals, Spinosissimas, Noisettes, Polyanthas, Large-Flowered Climbers, and various miscellaneous classes. Other "rose rustlers" from climates as diverse as Texas and Michigan have reported "finds" in their areas which echo this amazing diversity of tough, resilient old lovelies. I have come to the conclusion that roses are far more tolerant of less-than-ideal situations than most rose growers realize. Among the cultivars which I find commonly in some of the most intemperate, drought-prone locations imaginable are: Mermaid, La Reine, Marie Pavie, Mme. Gabriel Luizet, Harison's Yellow, Aglaia, Cl. Souvenir de la Malmaison, Papa Gontier, both the white and yellow Lady Banks roses, John Hopper, Marie van Houtte, Lady Hillingdon, Fortune's Double Yellow, Gloire des Rosomanes, Mme. Alfred Carriere, Mme. Gregoire Staechelin, Paul Ricault, Penelope, Duchesse de Brabant, and a wide array of Wichuraiana ramblers including Silver Moon, Alberic Barbier, New Dawn, American Pillar, Gardenia, and the Dorothy Perkins family. There are, of course, many roses which have been "found" by myself and my colleagues which remain unnamed, the subject of much discussion among people interested in such living history. Slowly, experts are identifying these beauties and specialty nurseries are re-introducing them to commerce as they prove to be old favorites which were once popular enough to have been transported West by pioneers intent on bringing with them a small piece of their former lives in "civilization," and have remained favorites as gardeners passed them from hand to hand in the form of "slips." And slips, or cuttings, remain an excellent way to propagate these wonderful antiques for renewed life in our own gardens today. For those who lack the facilities or the knowledge to start their own cuttings, many growers are providing healthy new plants of the treasures of the past. If any reader is interested in trying a few of these delightful and easy roses, I can offer a few tips for success in their experiments. First, try to find plants that have been grown on their own roots. Thus, if some natural disaster results in the loss of the rose, there is a much better chance of the plant recovering and sending up fresh, new shoots from its roots than if it is budded on a rootstock. Second, water a new rose plant deeply and well for its first year in the ground. This will assure development of deep, strong roots which will sustain the rose when water is withheld in the future. I have found that a drip system aids in delivering small, discrete quantities of water to roses. On the coast, a rose can do very well by its second or third year with 3-5 gallons of water, dripped onto it once or twice a month. In the hotter inland valleys roses will also survive with similar amounts of water, but will rebloom and generally look better if they get a bit more. However, I have seen established (5 year old), large roses make it through a hot, inland summer with no watering at all. I no longer water many of the roses in my coastal garden -- not at all. Mulches are an important part of the xeriscape rose garden, providing an attractive way of maintaining a bed and protecting the roots with a cool cover. A deep feeding of manure and alfalfa pellets, applied in California before the rainy season begins, helps the plant to remain vigorous and healthy when it is faced with difficult times. The roses listed above are merely a sampler of the varieties I have witnessed growing happily through droughts. A list of 70 cultivars and species (and their attributes) is available for a self-addressed stamped envelope sent to me at P. O. Box 191, Elk, CA 95432. And this list represents only those roses which I have personally discovered in my rambles through the California hills. Many more varieties have been gathered by other rosarians with an urge to explore and discover. I heartily recommend the pleasures of a day spent driving slowly along back roads, eyes peeled for the flash of color that marks the presence of a long-forgotten but still gorgeous rose. Happy hunting! |